September marks the beginning of the maple season in Shaoguan, southern China's Guangdong Province, when the first patches of red begin to appear among the mountain greenery.
In Xinfeng County, the changing colors offer a reason to head into the hills, where a day can take you from forest trails and historic buildings to Hakka food and maple woods.
Into the mountains
The journey begins at Yunji Mountain (云髻山), where dense forest and clear streams make the city seem farther away than it really is.
The trails wind through the trees, crossing streams and climbing gradually into the mountains.
In autumn, maple leaves begin to appear among the green. Later in the season, when more of the trees have turned, fallen leaves collect along the paths and in the valleys.
A town rebuilt from elsewhere
At the foot of the mountain lies Yunji Mountain Ancient Town (云髻山古镇), where around 300 historic buildings have been relocated from across China and reconstructed as part of an effort to save them from demolition.
Their original bricks, tiles, stones and timber were reused in the reconstruction, giving the town the feel of a place gathered from elsewhere and given a second life among Xinfeng's green hills and clear waters. Here, white walls and dark-tiled roofs characteristic of Huizhou architecture line streets infused with local Hakka character, creating a distinctive blend of architectural styles.
It is the sort of place that rewards an unhurried walk. In the soft light of autumn, the mountains, water and old buildings seem to settle into the same frame.
A taste of Hakka cooking
By lunchtime, the road leads to Luodong Food Street (罗峒美食一条街). The restaurants here specialize in Hakka home-style cooking, with dishes built around local ingredients rather than elaborate presentation.
Among the local specialties are Shatian goose with vinegar sauce (沙田鹅醋钵), Hakka stuffed tofu (客家酿豆腐), traditional braised duck (古法焖土鸭), sweet mountain-stream fish (甜山坑鱼) and handmade sweet green rice balls (手工艾糍).
One place to try is Huiming Hakka King Restaurant (惠明客家王酒家), known for its Hakka dishes.
Among the maple trees
In the afternoon, continue into the mountains to Lingnan Red Leaf World (岭南红叶世界).
The main maple season usually arrives between October and December, but some of the maples begin turning red as early as September, creating scattered patches of color across the valleys.
The maple forest is best explored on foot. The trails pass beneath the trees and open occasionally onto views of the surrounding mountains.
There are also two man-made attractions that have become popular places to take photographs.
At Sky Mirror, a large reflective surface appears to hover above the valley, catching the maple trees, clouds and sky in its reflection.
A group of small Hobbit-style cottages sits among the trees, their bright colors standing out against the forest.
If you want to stay longer, accommodation is available inside the scenic area. So there is no need to drive back down the mountain after dark. Once the daytime visitors have left, the forest becomes noticeably quieter.
By morning, the same landscape is still there outside the window: trees, mist and, increasingly, red leaves.
Author | Liu Xiaodi
Photos | Shaoguan Travel (韶关旅游)
