Huiru Restaurant, a time-honored teahouse in Guangzhou with a history spanning more than a century, has reintroduced its nighttime service, extending operating hours until 10 PM. This initiative, which began on September 12, aims to revive the space as a 24-hour social hub and strengthen cultural ties among residents.
The teahouse, first established in 1875, is one of the city's oldest and most iconic culinary institutions. In addition to serving classic Cantonese dim sum—such as shrimp dumplings (Har Gow), steamed pork dumplings (Siu Mai), and BBQ pork buns (Cha Siu Bao)—it has also introduced night-exclusive dishes like steamed duck feet with dried tangerine peel and traditional glutinous rice chicken, blending heritage techniques with contemporary tastes.
"Reviving night tea is not just a business decision; it’s a way to sustain the Cantonese lifestyle," a representative of Huiru Restaurant stated. "Many older residents missed the atmosphere of gathering over tea and snacks at night. We hope to serve as a warm, memory-filled urban living room."
Inside, the venue retains traditional décor elements including patterned floor tiles, wooden screens, and ceiling fans. Families spanning three generations were seen sharing meals, with elders recounting stories while younger members documented the experience on smartphones. The teahouse has also brought back customs like trolley service and teapot refilling, echoing Guangzhou's historical social rituals.
A regular customer, Auntie Chen, expressed appreciation for the deeper social significance of night tea: "It transcends dining—it represents Guangzhou's pragmatic, inclusive, and communal spirit."
Nighttime yum cha has deep roots in Guangzhou's culture, dating back to the early 20th century when the "three teas and two meals" custom provided evening gatherings for night-shift workers. The practice peaked in the 1980s and 90s, and Huiru Restaurant's revival now rekindles that legacy, offering a culinary beacon into the night.
Author | Feng Huiting
Photo | Yangcheng Evening News
Editor | Liu Lingzhi, James Campion, Shen He